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不规则波在逆流中的破碎
作者:李玉成 董国海  
单位: 大连理工大学 大连理工大学  
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出版年,卷(期):页码:1993,17(5):15-20
摘要:
作者(1991)的理论分析和实验研究表明:对于崩波型破碎,合用的临界相对波高值(H/d)_b及Michell和Miche的临界波陡值(H/L)_b可作为规则波的破碎指标。基于相同的原则,通过系统的分析和实验,规则波的破碎指标可以推广应用于不规则波。
The experimental tests and theoretical analysis by the authors (1991) indicate that critical value of relative wave height (H/d)b given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H/L)b given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular waves. According to the same principle, a systematic theoretical analysis and experiment of irregular waves have been done by the authors to solve the breaking problem of irregular waves. It is indicated that the authors' method for determining wave breaking indices of regular waves can also be used for irregular waves.
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参考文献:
[1] McCowan,J., 1984,On the Highest Wave of Permament Type,Phil.,May.,Series 5,38,pp351-357. [2] Michell,J. H., 1983,On the Highest Waves in Water,Phil.,Mag.,Series 5,pp430-437. [3] Miche, R., 1944, Mouvement Ondulatoires Delamer, Ann. Ponts et Chauss, 144, pp25--78, pp131--164,pp270--292. [4] Silvester, R., 1974, Coastal Engineering I, Generation,Propagation and Influence of Waves,Elsevier Scientific Publihsing company. [5] Goda, Y., 1970, A Synthesis of Breaker Indices, Trans. of JSCE, Vol. 2, Part 2, pp227--229. [6] Longuet--Higgins,M. S.,Fox,M. J. H., 1977,Theory of the Almost Highest Wave:The Inner Solution,J. of Fluid Mechanics, 88 ,pp721--741. [7] Li, Y. C., et al, 1991a, Wave Breaker Indices in Finite Wave Depth,China Ocean Engineering, Vol. 5, No. 1,pp51-64. [8] 李玉成、董国海,1991_b,用流函数理论计算缓波上波浪的破碎位置,海岸工程1991,No4 [9] Dean, R. G., 1965, Stream Function Reptesentation of Nonlineat Ocean Waves. Jouinal of Geophysical Reseaieh,Vol. 70,No. 18,pp4561-4572. [10] Daping Zhang, and Tsuguo Sunamura, 1990, Conditions for the Occurrence of Vortices Induced by Breaking Waves,Coastal Engineering in Japan,Vol. 33,No. 2 [11] Dag Myrhaug and Sren Peter Kjeldsen, 1984,Parametric MOdelling of Joint Probability Density Distribution for Steepness and Asymmetric in Deep Water Waves, Applied Ocean Research, Vol. 6, No. 4. [12] Ochi,M. K. ,and C. H. Tsai, 1983,Prediction of Occurrence of Breaking Waves in Deep Water, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 13,2008-2019. [13] Kamphuis, J. W., 1991, Ineipent Wave Breaking,Coastal Engineering 15:185-302.
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